Corfu
Venetian elegance and emerald sea

What makes Corfu unique

Corfu captivates with its contrasts. The old town of Kerkyra, with its Venetian fortresses, shaded kantounia and palaces with colourful shutters, exudes an atmosphere unique in Greece. Beyond the ramparts, the island reveals hills carpeted with ancient olive groves, secluded coves and spectacular panoramas such as Cape Drastis and its wave-sculpted cliffs. The local gastronomy also bears an Italian imprint: pastitsada, sofrito, and the famous candied kumquats found nowhere else in Greece. From Corfu, boat excursions lead to the neighbouring islands of Paxos and Antipaxos for an even more intimate escape.

The Venetian legacy can be read at every corner of the old town. The Spianada, one of the largest squares in Greece, opens onto the sea and the old fortress with thoroughly Mediterranean elegance. Along its western side, the Liston, a stone arcade inspired by the Rue de Rivoli in Paris, hosts the cafes where you settle in for an espresso while watching cricket players, a sport introduced by the British in the 19th century and still played here with passion. The old fortress, set on a promontory facing the sea, and the new fortress on the western hill recount four centuries of Venetian presence that shaped the architecture, language and cuisine of the island. Further south, the Mon Repos palace, where Prince Philip of Edinburgh was born, houses a peaceful botanical garden where you stroll beneath magnolias and holm oaks. It is this layering of influences, Venetian, French and British, that gives Corfu its singular character among the Ionian Islands.

The finest walks on Corfu

Corfu is an island discovered on foot, without haste, at the rhythm of shaded trails and panoramas that reveal themselves at every turn. The possibilities are many, from coastal walks to mountain paths, and all hold their share of surprises. Here, every walk ends with a shaded terrace, a glass of local wine and the quiet satisfaction of having earned the view.

The Corfu Trail, a long-distance path crossing the island from south to north over roughly 220 kilometres, provides a thread for curious travellers. There is no need to walk it in full: its most beautiful sections can be savoured one day at a time, like so many windows onto the island's diversity. The stages through the olive groves of the centre or along the west-coast cliffs rank among the most rewarding walks in all of Greece. The trail links villages where each evening you find a charming address and a generous table.

From the village of Lakones, perched in the heights above Paleokastritsa, a trail leads to the Byzantine fortress of Angelokastro. The path winds between olive trees and fragrant maquis, with the sea below shifting shade at every step. At the summit, the ruins of the 13th-century citadel offer a striking panorama over the entire northwest coast. You understand why the locals took refuge here in times of peril: the view stretches for miles.

The walk to Porto Timoni from the village of Afionas holds one of the island's most beautiful surprises. After about twenty minutes on a stony trail bordered with thyme and sage, you discover a double bay with waters of an almost unreal blue. Depending on the wind, you choose the north shore or the south, in a rare and precious solitude.

To the northwest, Cape Drastis unveils its white sandstone cliffs sculpted by waves and wind. This lunar landscape, reached by an easy path from the village of Peroulades, composes one of the most photographed scenes on Corfu. On the northeast coast, the coastal trail from Kassiopi to Kouloura threads between maritime pines and small pebble beaches, linking fishing villages where time seems to have stopped. At Kouloura, you lunch in a taverna practically on the water, facing the tiny horseshoe harbour lined with cypresses.

Our favourite trails on Corfu

Beaches and coves to discover on foot

Some of Corfu's most beautiful beaches must be earned. They are accessible only on foot, along discreet trails that cross the maquis or descend the cliff face. It is this short walk that preserves their charm and their tranquillity.

Porto Timoni, already mentioned for the beauty of its double bay, is accessible only via the trail from Afionas. No road, no beachside car park: just the path, the scent of the maquis, then the reward of those twin coves with crystal-clear waters. It is the kind of place you hesitate to leave.

From the village of Liapades, a trail descends to the cove of Rovinia, hidden at the foot of cliffs draped in vegetation. The walk takes about twenty minutes through the olive groves. You arrive at a white-pebble beach lapped by turquoise waters, in absolute calm. Regulars come with a picnic and a good book, and do not leave until sunset.

In the south of the island, Lake Korission and its wild beach of Limni compose an unexpected landscape. This brackish lagoon, separated from the sea by a long strip of sand and dunes, shelters rich wildlife (flamingos in spring, herons, turtles). The beach, swept by the wind, possesses a raw, wild beauty far from the postcard image. You feel as though you are at the edge of the world.

On the west coast, Myrtiotissa nestles at the foot of golden sandstone cliffs. Lawrence Durrell described it as the most beautiful beach in the world. The trail descending to it passes through a holm-oak forest before opening onto a narrow, wild cove framed by rock walls. Swimming here in limpid waters rewards every step of the way. You stay until the shadow of the cliffs reaches the sand, then climb back with the memory of a moment of grace.

Each of these beaches tells something of the island: its geology, its fragrant maquis, its capacity to preserve spaces of intact beauty. Pack a mask and snorkel in your bag: the rocky seabed off Corfu harbours colourful marine life visible in just a few metres of water.

Corfiot nature: an island of exceptional greenness

Corfu is often called the greenest of the Greek islands. This is not a figure of speech: it is a reality that strikes you from the very first moments. Seen from the sky or from the sea, the island stands out for its dense plant cover, a mantle of green found nowhere else in the Greek archipelago. Where the Cyclades offer bare rock and stark light, Corfu offers shade, coolness and the scent of the undergrowth.

The explanation begins with the olive trees. Corfu has nearly four million, the greatest density in all of Greece. Some are centuries old, others millennia. Their gnarled trunks, sculpted by time, trace strange and beautiful forms you encounter on every walk. The Venetians, who governed the island for four centuries, actively encouraged olive planting by offering a bounty for each tree put in the ground. Corfu's olive oil, mild and fruity, still carries that heritage.

The cypresses trace the island's characteristic silhouette, their dark columns punctuating the landscape like sentinels. Mingled with olive trees, holm oaks and maritime pines, they create shaded forests where you walk with pleasure even in the heat of the day. In spring, the undergrowth is covered with wild orchids, cyclamen and anemones.

The kumquat is the other botanical emblem of Corfu. This small golden citrus, originally from Asia, grows nowhere else in Greece. It is transformed into liqueur, preserves, marmalade and pastries. The kumquat orchards, crossed in the countryside around Nymphes and Sokraki, perfume the air with a sweet, delicate citrus fragrance. A visit to a local producer is a chance to taste these specialities and bring home an authentic souvenir.

The gardens of Mon Repos palace, in the southern outskirts of Kerkyra, offer a peaceful botanical stroll. Magnolias, ancient oaks, laurels and Mediterranean plants compose a park where you wander in the shade among the remains of a Doric temple and pathways laid out by British gardeners in the 19th century. It is a place of serenity, just minutes on foot from the town centre.

Practical tips

The best season for discovering Corfu on foot runs from April to June and from September to late October. In spring, the island is a garden in bloom: wild orchids, poppies, jasmine and wisteria line the paths. Temperatures range between 18 and 25 degrees, ideal for walking. In autumn, the light turns more golden, the sea is still warm (around 23 degrees in October) and the vegetation takes on amber tones.

In terms of equipment, travelling light is the way to go. Comfortable walking shoes with a good sole are enough for most trails. Bring a hat, sun cream and a water bottle: even in spring the Greek sun makes itself felt. A swimsuit in the daypack is essential, as many walks lead to coves where a dip is irresistible.

The trails on Corfu are on the whole well waymarked, notably the Corfu Trail which has regular yellow-and-black markers. For secondary walks, an island map (available locally or as a download) usefully complements the signposting. Our trip notes include detailed directions for each stage, with landmarks and walking times.

To reach Corfu, the simplest option is a direct flight from several European cities (London, Paris, Geneva, Brussels), with frequent services from April to October. You can also reach the island via Athens, with a domestic flight of around 50 minutes, or a ferry from Igoumenitsa on the western mainland coast (roughly a 90-minute crossing). Corfu airport is just 3 kilometres from the centre of Kerkyra, making the transfer to your charming address straightforward. With our trips, transfers are organised for you: all that remains is to set foot on the island and begin exploring.

To extend your Ionian escape, Corfu pairs naturally with Paxos, accessible in an hour by boat, for a journey between two islands with complementary atmospheres. You can also explore other shores of the Ionian Islands, each with its own character.

When to visit Corfu

Spring (April to June) is particularly enchanting: the vegetation is at its peak, wisteria scents the air and temperatures are perfect for walking. Autumn (September to November) offers prolonged mildness and ideal light for photography. Discover Kefalonia and Lefkada, its Ionian neighbours.