Corfu is the greenest of the Greek islands, the most Venetian too, and perhaps the most fragrant. Beneath its canopies of centuries-old olive trees, along its white cliffs fringed with turquoise coves, the air carries the scent of jasmine, wild sage, and warm earth. It is an island to be discovered on foot, in slowness and wonder.
Paleokastritsa: cliffs and secret coves
The path leading to the coves of Paleokastritsa first follows an olive grove before dropping towards the sea. Below, the waters shift between turquoise and deep blue, so transparent you can see the pebbles on the bottom. The Theotokos Monastery, set on the clifftop since the 13th century, watches over the bay with contagious serenity. From its bougainvillea-draped terrace, the view embraces the entire west coast. You linger, you breathe, you understand why the Venetians made this their favourite retreat.
From Kassiopi to Kouloura: the north-east coast
This coastal walk is one of the gentlest on the island. The trail weaves between maritime pines and small pebble beaches, linking fishing villages where time seems to have stopped. At Kouloura, the tiny horseshoe-shaped harbour, bordered by cypresses, composes one of the most photographed scenes in Corfu. Across the strait, the Albanian mountains trace a blue line on the horizon. You lunch in a waterside taverna on grilled octopus and a tomato salad still warm from the sun.
Mount Pantokrator: the roof of the island
The highest point of Corfu is earned through a gradual approach past villages clinging to the slopes: Strinylas, Petalia, with their shaded squares and stone fountains. The walk is steady, never steep, and the reward grows with every turn. At the summit, a 14th-century monastery and a breathtaking panorama: the Ionian Sea on one side, Albania and Epirus on the other, and on a clear day, the distant Italian coast. The silence up there has a particular quality.
Angelokastro: the fortress between sky and sea
Perched on a rocky promontory above Paleokastritsa, Angelokastro is one of the most spectacular Byzantine fortresses in Greece. The path winds along the hillside, between olive trees and maquis, with the sea below changing colour at every bend. At the top, the ruins of the 13th-century citadel house a small chapel and a breathtaking view over the entire north-west coast. This is a place steeped in history: for centuries, Corfu's inhabitants sought refuge here during invasions. Today, people come for the beauty and the pleasure of a walk accessible to all.
Porto Timoni: the beach with two faces
It takes about twenty minutes of walking from the village of Afionas, on a stony path bordered by fragrant maquis, to discover Porto Timoni. The surprise is total: a narrow strip of land separates twin bays, one facing north, the other south. Depending on the wind, you choose your shore. The waters are an almost unreal blue, visitors are rare, and the sense of discovery is intact. It is the kind of place you hesitate to share, for fear it might change.
Old Perithia: the mountain ghost village
Tucked in the heights of the north-east, Old Perithia is an abandoned village that nature has slowly reclaimed with ivy and wild fig trees. Founded in the 14th century, deserted in the 20th, it is now experiencing a quiet revival: a few houses are being carefully restored, and two or three tavernas have reopened beneath the plane trees. You reach it by a path through silent olive groves, and discover a forgotten, rural, authentic Corfu, far from the tourist shoreline. The charm of patina, of time passing and returning.
From the Achilleion to Benitses: in Sissi's footsteps
Empress Elisabeth of Austria loved Corfu so much that she had a palace built here. The Achilleion, with its terraced gardens populated by mythological statues, offers a sumptuous sea view. The walk that descends towards the village of Benitses follows shaded paths, between lemon trees and dry-stone walls. Benitses has kept its character as a fishing port, with nets drying on the quay and small tavernas serving the catch of the day. A stroll that blends imperial heritage and island joie de vivre.
The Corfu Trail: the great island traverse
For travellers who wish to immerse themselves more deeply in the island's landscapes, the Corfu Trail offers a grand traverse from south to north over about 220 kilometres. This waymarked trail, which can of course be walked in chosen stages, crosses the full diversity of Corfu: the gentle hills of the south covered in olive trees, the wild beaches of the west coast, the forests of oak and cypress in the interior, and the more mountainous landscapes of the north all the way to Cape Drastis, where white sandstone cliffs plunge into the sea. Each day's walk ends in a village where a charming address awaits you. It is the most complete way to discover the island on foot.
Flavours of Corfu: what the trails offer along the way
Walking in Corfu is also about encountering a unique terroir. The island is the land of the kumquat, that small golden citrus fruit transformed into liqueur, jam, or candied fruit. You discover it in the shops of Kerkyra, but also in the inland villages where a few artisans keep the tradition alive. Corfu's olive oil, produced from those millions of centuries-old trees you pass on every walk, has a characteristic softness. In the mountain tavernas, you will be served sofrito, a veal stew flavoured with garlic and white vinegar, or pastitsada, a pasta dish with spiced tomato sauce inherited from the Venetians. Every trail leads to a table, and every table tells a story of the island.
Practical tips for discovering Corfu on foot
The best season for walking in Corfu runs from April to June and from September to late October. In spring, the island is a garden: wild orchids, poppies, and jasmine line the paths, and the light has a particular clarity. In autumn, temperatures remain pleasant for walking, the sea is warm for a swim after the walk, and the vegetation takes on golden tones.
The old town of Kerkyra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, deserves at least half a day of wandering. Its Venetian lanes, Italian-style arcades, and the Spianada, one of the largest squares in Greece, create a setting unique among the Greek islands. It is the ideal starting point for a stay that alternates countryside trails and urban promenades.
Our stays in Corfu
Kelifos offers several ways to discover Corfu on foot, with charming accommodations and carefully planned routes:
- Corfu, the Emerald Isle: a self-guided stay to explore the green island at your own pace.
- Corfu and Paxos, a journey through the Ionian Sea: the combination of two Ionian islands, between cliffs, olive groves, and secret coves.
- Corfu and Paxos, Ionian lights: a guided trip to savour the best of the island with a guide who knows every trail.
Solène Roux
Responsable Éditoriale
