There are mornings when Greece takes hold of you before you have even finished your coffee. In Corfu, it is the light that does it: a golden, almost liquid light that flows between the cypresses and settles on the Ionian Sea like a promise of gentleness. It is in this very light that our walking journey between two islands begins.
Corfu, the green prologue
They say Corfu is the greenest of the Greek islands. The first days of our stay confirm this reputation: beneath canopies of centuries-old olive trees, between kumquat orchards and jasmine gardens, the island's back lanes unfurl a landscape of rare softness. The Venetian influence shows in the ochre facades of Kerkyra, the old town listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where we happily sit down for a mezze with local wine.
It was in this same Corfu that the writer Gerald Durrell set his famous trilogy, recounting a childhood cradled by the island's lush nature. Walking among the olive trees, one understands why he described Corfu as a Garden of Eden. At the table, the Ionian flavours stand out for a softness lent by Italian influence: a drizzle of fresh olive oil on warm bread, a few olives, a garlic-scented sofrito, and happiness is right there.
Corfu deserves that you take the time for its coastal paths and its hilltop villages. If you want to know more, our guide The best hikes in Corfu details each route. But the charm of this journey lies precisely in what comes next: the crossing to Paxos.
The crossing: one hour that changes everything
Taking the boat to Paxos is stepping into another world. The ferry leaves Corfu's port in the morning light, skirts the southern coast of the island, then ventures into the open Ionian Sea. After about an hour, a low green silhouette appears on the horizon. No dramatic cliffs on approach, no imposing harbour: just a garden set upon the water, barely ten kilometres long, covered in olive trees so ancient that their time-sculpted trunks resemble works of art.
The contrast with Corfu is immediate. Here, no busy roads, no crowds. Just the song of cicadas and the lapping of water against the hulls of colourful caiques. You can feel that you have arrived somewhere different, more intimate, slower.
Paxos on foot: from village to village
The island reveals itself on foot in three natural stages, linked by shaded paths that wind through some of the finest olive groves in Greece.
Gaios, the miniature capital, sets the tone. Pastel houses are reflected in the calm waters of the channel, sheltered by the islet of Saint Nicholas. You stroll without purpose, stop for an iced coffee, and admire the fishing boats returning at dusk. The trail heading south follows the eastern coast for about three kilometres, through the olive groves, to a promontory with a view towards Antipaxos.
Loggos, tucked into a bay on the eastern coast, may be the most photogenic of the three villages. A handful of waterside tavernas, colourful boats, a centuries-old plane tree beneath which you lunch on grilled octopus and sun-ripened tomato salad. The path connecting Gaios to Loggos (around 5 km, two hours of easy walking) passes through olive groves where some trees are over five hundred years old. Their gnarled trunks form natural sculptures that you happily stop to admire.
Lakka, at the northern tip, occupies the head of a circular bay with shallow waters, ideal for swimming. From Loggos, allow about 4 km along a trail that alternates between olive groves and sea views. Lakka has the particular serenity of places at the end of the road: you settle at a terrace facing the bay, you watch sailboats glide into the anchorage, you let time do its work.
The western cliffs: the spectacle of Paxos
The western coast of Paxos holds the most striking moment of the journey. Limestone cliffs sixty metres high plunge straight into a sea of unreal blue. A trail follows the top of these cliffs along the full length of the island (about 8 km from south to north), the ground carpeted with thyme and wild sage. You are more likely to meet goats than other walkers. At every turn, a new panorama, a new gentle vertigo.
The sea caves carved by the waves, Ipapanti and Ortholithos, can be visited by boat. You enter them in a turquoise light that seems to come from another world. You understand why the ancient Greeks placed one of Poseidon's dwellings here.
A trip to Antipaxos
In fine weather, an excursion by caique from Gaios to Antipaxos is a must. This tiny, virtually uninhabited island is home to two beaches of almost surreal beauty: Vrika, with its white sand and turquoise waters, and Voutoumi, bordered by pale rocks. The waters around Antipaxos are among the clearest in the entire Mediterranean. You spend half a day swimming and lazing, before returning to Paxos for a waterside dinner.
When to go and how to combine the two islands
Spring (late April to early June) offers nature in bloom, fields of poppies and broom, and a sea that gently warms up. Autumn (mid-September to late October) adds the sweetness of shorter days, the first rains reviving the greens, and above all the start of the olive harvest, a convivial moment in the villages. Sea temperature hovers around 23 degrees in October, perfect for a swim after every walk.
The Corfu + Paxos combination is best enjoyed over eight to ten days: a few days of walks in Corfu to soak up the Ionian atmosphere, then the crossing to Paxos for a more intimate immersion. Your luggage awaits you at each stage, charming accommodations are reserved, and all that is left for you is to walk and savour.
Our Corfu and Paxos trips
Kelifos offers several ways to experience the Ionian:
- Corfu and Paxos, a journey through the Ionian Sea: the two islands combined as a self-guided trip, with boat crossing and the finest trails of each island.
- Corfu, the Emerald Isle: a self-guided stay to explore Corfu at your own pace, with charming accommodations and carefully planned routes.
- Corfu and Paxos, a journey through the Ionian Islands: the same combination as a guided trip, with a guide who knows every trail.
Whichever option you choose, you will find that Ionian light which, once encountered, never quite leaves you.
Solène Roux
Responsable Éditoriale
