There is a Greece that the regulars keep a little to themselves. It arrives when the suitcases of summer head home, when the sea has finished warming and stays as mild as a bath, when the light turns more golden at the end of the afternoon. That Greece is the Greece of September. You still swim in water at 24 or 25 °C, you lunch on a terrace without having booked, and you come across the first bunches of grapes being brought in from the vines. For anyone who likes to walk without hurrying and to sit at length at table, Greece in September has all the makings of a well-kept secret.
| In brief | The connoisseurs' month: sea still very warm, crowds thinning, light growing softer |
|---|---|
| Ideal for | Epicurean travellers who want the water of summer without the crush of summer |
| Sea | Around 24 to 25 °C, among the warmest of the year |
| Pace | Gentle, at your own rhythm, self-guided |
| Our favourite islands in September | Crete, Naxos and Amorgos, Corfu |
If you are still hesitating between the months, our guide to the seasons in Greece, month by month places September within the calendar of the year, and our notebook of the Greek spring tells of the other great moment for walkers. The page you are reading dwells on this one month of September, the one we find, in many respects, the most comfortable for discovering the country on foot.
Why September is the connoisseurs' month
September achieves a rare balance. The Aegean and the Ionian have stored up the heat of the whole summer, so that the water stays among the warmest of the year, often between 24 and 25 °C. It is the month when people swim most readily, sometimes right into the evening. At the same time, the air loses its excesses. The heavy heat of August subsides, the nights turn cool again, and walking in the middle of the morning or at the end of the afternoon becomes a simple pleasure once more rather than a trial.
There is also the calm regained. Families have gone home with the start of the school year, the beaches empty, and you find the white lanes and the paths again without the press of the high season. The tavernas, for their part, stay open and are still running at full tilt, which means tables available and owners who finally have time to chat.
Finally, September is a month of harvests, and that changes everything for anyone who loves local produce. It is the height of the grape harvest: in the vineyards of the Cyclades as of Crete, the grapes are cut and distilling begins. The first olives are not far behind. To walk in September is to cross a countryside at work, scented with must and ripe figs.
The sea, warmer than you think
This is probably the finest surprise of the month. Many imagine that in leaving summer you leave swimming behind. It is the opposite. As the water takes time to warm up and then to cool down, it stays as warm as in August, around 24 to 25 °C depending on the island. In Crete, on the south coast, it stays agreeable well beyond, and in Corfu as in the Cyclades it still invites long swims.
In practice, you can follow a morning walk along a coastal path with an afternoon dive into a cove, without shivering. Slip your swimming costume into your day pack: the temptation will return at every turquoise inlet.
The weather, region by region
The Greek climate is not the same from one island to another, and that is useful to know before choosing where to set your steps in September.
In Crete and the south. This is the surest region of the month. Afternoons hover around 27 °C, the air stays dry, and rain there is almost anecdotal: barely 2 days of rain on average over the whole month. The mornings are luminous and mild, perfect for paths along the olive groves and for mountain villages.
In the Cyclades (Naxos, Amorgos). Summer lingers here too, with sunny, warm days. The meltemi, that north wind which sometimes blows hard in summer, weakens markedly as the month goes on, which makes the ends of the day more peaceful. The light, already legendary in the Cyclades, gains in softness as September advances.
In Corfu and the Ionian islands. Further west, these islands stay warm and green, with afternoons around 26 to 28 °C at the start of the month easing towards 24 °C at the end. It is also the side of the country where a few showers may reappear at the end of the month, brief and refreshing most of the time, never a deluge. They are precisely what gives the vegetation back its brilliance.
In short, the first half of September still looks very much like summer, and the second slides gently towards autumn. If you are set on the most reliable warmth, aim for the start of the month or the far south.
What is harvested, what is tasted
To travel in September is to arrive at table at the right moment. The markets overflow with figs, table grapes, tomatoes still full of sun and peppers. In the wine villages the grape harvest is in full swing and, here and there, people begin distilling the marc to draw off Cretan tsikoudia (the local raki), often around great family tables.
The first olives follow close behind: the harvest starts in October and continues all autumn. It is a chance to understand, on the spot, where that oil found in every dish comes from. Several villages celebrate the grape harvest at this season. To sit down in front of a plate of market vegetables, a grilled fish and a glass of new wine is a good reason to walk a little each day.
Our favourite islands in September
3 destinations sum the month up well, and on each we offer a self-guided walking trip, to be covered quietly, your luggage transferred from one address to the next.
Crete, for the warmest sea and the most reliable weather. Between hinterland villages, olive groves and the coves of the south, our trip Crete, island of wonders, self-guided unrolls a generous Greece, where each day ends with a swim and a good table.
Naxos and Amorgos, for the heart of the Cyclades without the crowds of August. Paths between white villages, isolated chapels and beaches still warm: our trip Naxos and Amorgos, in the heart of the Cyclades, self-guided makes the most of the mildness regained at the end of summer.
Corfu, for the green and the gentleness of the Ionian islands. Century-old olive groves, Venetian lanes and limpid waters compose a tender setting that you savour at your own pace in our trip Corfu, the Emerald Isle, self-guided.
If you are still hesitating over the destination, our comparison of which Greek island to choose will help you decide according to your wishes.
What to slip into your case
September luggage stays light, but it anticipates the slide towards autumn. Bring what you need for the daytime sun (hat, sunglasses, sun cream, breathable tops) and the swimming costume, indispensable, because the sea will tempt you every day. Add a light jumper or jacket for the evenings that turn cool, especially at the end of the month and in the Ionian islands. Good supple walking shoes are amply enough for our gentle paths. Slip in a water bottle too and, if you are heading to Corfu at the end of September, a thin windproof for a passing shower. As for the rest, your luggage is waiting for you at the hotel of each stage, we take care of it.
September, our favourite month in Greece
September is, in our eyes, the most comfortable month for discovering Greece on foot. The sea stays among the warmest of the year, the air calms down after the heatwave, the crowds withdraw and the countryside enters its harvest. Whether you lean towards the warm coves of Crete, the light of the Cyclades on Naxos and Amorgos or the tender green of Corfu, this month offers a generous and quiet Greece, just before autumn. And if you want to compare with the other seasons, our full guide to the seasons remains the best starting point.
Frequently asked questions about Greece in September
What is the weather like in Greece in September?
The heatwave of August has subsided and the air recovers a very agreeable mildness. In Crete and the south, afternoons still hover around 27 °C under a dry sky, with barely 2 days of rain over the whole month. In the Cyclades the meltemi weakens week by week, while in Corfu and the Ionian islands a few brief showers may reappear at the end of the month. So expect a very summery start to the month and a more autumnal end, all quite gently.
Can you still swim in Greece in September?
More than ever, and that is the fine surprise of the month. The sea has stored up the heat of the whole summer and stays wonderfully mild, around 24 to 25 °C. In Crete and on the south coast it touches 26 °C and invites long swims well after September. Slip your costume into your day pack: every turquoise cove will tempt you.
Is September a good month for walking in Greece?
It is, in our eyes, the most comfortable month for discovering the country on foot. The air calms down after the strong heat, mornings and late afternoons turn mild again, and the paths as well as the white lanes empty with the start of the school year. Each day's walk can close with a swim in water still warm and a taverna table that is finally quiet.
Which Greek island should you choose in September?
Crete offers the most reliable weather and the warmest sea, Naxos and Amorgos give access to the heart of the Cyclades without the crowds of August, and Corfu unrolls the tender green of the Ionian islands. On each we offer a self-guided walking trip, your luggage transferred from one stage to the next. If you are hesitating, our comparison of which Greek island to choose helps you decide according to your wishes.
Your question is not on this list?
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Continue reading
- Discover Greece in May!
- Which Greek island is right for you? The complete guide
- Crete in October, a golden season
- When to Visit Greece: Our Month-by-Month Guide
Article written by
Maria Papadopoulou (Μαρία Παπαδοπούλου)
Editorial lead
I hike, and Greece is the place I keep coming back to. My initial studies (a Master’s in Marketing and a degree in Applied Foreign Languages) taught me how to build an editorial project, and the trails taught me the… Read more
